September 2000 - Tasikmalya, West Java, Indonesia After two days in Bandung, we stopped in a very small town called Tasikmalya.  Being a small town with not much interest for tourists, it was obvious that we were the only two western tourists there, which provided us with a semi-celebrity status.  The language barrier was difficult but we accepted the challenge and it helped us become more comfortable speaking Bahasa Indonesian. We have now been travelling for 18 days in which time we have neither seen or spoken to another American.  Most of the few tourists here are from the Netherlands, being that less than 60 years ago, Indonesia was still a Dutch colony (The Dutch ruled here for over 300 years).  Many Indonesians are surprised to see American travelers and are eager to talk to us for a chance to practice their English.  The people are some of the most generous and friendly that we have ever encountered, and as we are finding out, Indonesians have a wonderful sense of humor.  They are quick to joke about others and themselves and believe things should be done with a playful sense of duty.

September 2000 - Pangandaran, West Java, Indonesia While planning for this trip, we were excited about visiting Southeast Asia's many beaches.  Our first beach exprience was in the quiet fishing village of Pangandaran.  Usually when we first enter a new town, we visit several places of accommodation before we make our choice on where to stay.  However, on our visit to Pangandaran, this ritual was unnecessary because the first place we checked out, Bulak Laut Bungalows, turned out to be more than we expected.  For the low price of $5 USD a night, we received a huge, tropical style room including a rock garden bathroom and a front porch overlooking a fish pond, which we had to walk across in order to enter our room.  On top of all this lush beauty, the staff of young men were helpful with travel information, learning the local Sundanese culture and teaching us Bahasa Indonesian.

Hundreds of fishing boats line the beaches of Pangandaran.  A majority of the villagers here are employed in the fishing industry.

A sleek fishing boat upon the sand of Pangandaran Beach.

The waters off Pangandaran are plentiful but very dangerous.  While we were there, a local fisherman drowned; travelers are warned not to swim in particular areas.

Due to the many volcanoes in Java, the beach at Pangandaran was of wonderfully soft, black sand.  It was very relaxing to wander around this small village watching the various ways in which the fishermen gather their catch.  One morning we sat for two hours observing a unique way to collect fish.  Boats take the net far out to sea while leaving two very long ropes (possibly one km long each) attached to both sides of the net with family members on the shore.  Once the net is in position, the family members begin the long process of pulling each rope in until the net finally reaches the shore full of fish.  This process involves at least ten people (usually more) and all are from one extended family.  This type of fishing is an example of how the Indonesian people live everyday with the concept of gotong-royong (helping each other).  Another example of gotong-royong is the way in which rice is cultivated in Java.  Due to the mountainous terrain, rice fields are built in the terrace style where the field at the top is the first to receive the water from the mountain.  The water then passes through each terrace until it reaches the vast fields in the valley below.  As a result of gotong-royong, each farmer receives the water they need to cultivate their crops.

From the many different ways to catch fish that we witnessed in Southeast Asia, this way was probably the most fun for us to watch.  As the net gets pulled closer and closer to shore, the activity increases as women prepare to clean and sort the incoming catch and children splash in the water.  A very delightful way to spend the afternoon.

In addition to the beautiful beaches, Pangandaran also offers a unique National Park complete with palm fringed white sand beaches, barking deer, monkeys and other wildlife.  As we found out the monkeys have a huge appetitie for peanuts and no fear of humans.  Brian coaxed one monkey to grab a peanut directly from his hand, when soon after, approxiamatley 30 monkeys wanted to do the same, giving proof to the old saying, "Monkey see, monkey do."  Another interesting aspect of Pangandaran happens each night at sunset when thousands of gigantic bats fly from the caves in the National Park and head towards the mainland of Java in search of food.  Sitting on the beach, drinking a beer, watching the sunset and witnessing the nightly bat migration is a big night out in Pangandaran, just our style.

Brian feeding the monkeys at Pangandaran National Park.

If you did not bring any of your own, don't worry, there are plenty of women selling, "Peanuts for monkeys," at the entrance to the National Park.

The area around Pangandaran is full of activities and sights to see and we took a day trip to the nearby Green Canyon.  As you can probably guess from its name, it is a canyon and, yes, it is green.  The river that leads into the Canyon is a bright, dazzling green that reflects the green moss growing on its rocky banks.  As we left the boat behind, we swam deeper into the dark green Canyon covered in stalagmites, moss and other vegetation.  At one point, a land bridge completely covers the Canyon with water dripping down from above, definately the coolest shower we have ever taken.  The foliage covering the Canyon is a canopy of green fractals against the bright sky which is best viewed as you float on your back and let the current of the river take you where it will.  We also bathed in a waterfall which according to local legend is said to be The Fountain of Youth but taking a look at the old woman renting inner tubes at the base of the waterfall, we highly doubt its potency.

Villages along the river as we head to the Green Canyon.

One of the many waterfalls that drain into the Green Canyon.

Heading out of the dark green Canyon into the light of the afternoon sun.

A local Wayang Golek artist.  Wayang Golek is a traditional form of puppetry from Sunda, West Java.  It takes decades to master the art of carving three-dimensional wooden puppets.

This man's family has been carving and painting Wayang Golek for generations.  The entire family is engaged in the process - his son is his apprentice and his wife and daughters sew the ornate costumes the puppets wear.

The characters of Wayang Golek are usually taken from the ancient Hindu epics, The Ramayana or The Mahabharata.  Pictured above is the hero, Rama, and his wife, Sita, from The Ramayana.

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