September 2000 - Dieng Plateau, Central Java, Indonesia

The name Dieng means "Abode of the Gods" and it certainly is a fitting home for any self-respecting god.  This plateau is 2,000 meters above sea level providing a  cool and refreshing atmosphere.  The oldest surviving Hindu temples in Java are located in Dieng, however it is the natural beauty of the plateau that makes a visit here outstanding.  Steep mountainsides terraced with vegetable plots enclose a huge volcanically active plateau with cool mineral lakes.  Due to the climate of Dieng, farmers are able to grow various crops that are not grown elsewhere in Java, for example, the potato.  Potato farming has made Sembungan (the highest village in Java) fairly wealthy, enabling an inordinate amount of the population to make the pilgrimage to Mecca.  We first walked to a green and turqoise lake, colored by the various 
The Dieng Plateau nestled in the high mountains of central Java.
sulfur springs, surrounded by steep mountain terraces.  Climbing up through the farmers' fields, we discovered an excellent view of the lakes and surrounding area.  The farmers were extremely friendly and somewhat surprised to see us walking through their fields.  They were always helpful and glad to point us in the best direction with a broad, if mostly toothless smile.  Being that most of Dieng's sites lie in a 10 km loop, we found that it was best to explore the plateau on foot.  This provided us with a great way to meet the locals going about their daily routine and also to see great views of the area.  After visiting one of the Hindu temples, Candi Bima, we headed for the volcanic crater of Kawah Sibentang.  This crater contains steamy vents, frantically bubbling mud ponds and the air here smells of sulfur.  We then headed for the five main Hindu temples of the Arjuna Complex, clustered together in the center of vast vegetable fields.  The ancient man-made temples provided a stark contrast to the terraced hills of the plateau.  One of our most relaxing and enjoyable days was topped off with a unique encounter with throngs of local schoolchildren.  They rushed at us with pens and notebooks in hand requesting our autographs and giggling as we introduced oursleves.
Speaking of schoolchildren, one of the more ubiquitous sounds that we encounter is the barrage of "Hello Misters" addressed to both of us from children.  Regardless of gender, children and some adutls believe that "Hello Mister" is the proper way to greet western foreigners.  We have learned that when we walk past schools where the children are outside playing to prepare ourselves for the onslaught of them screaming "Hello Mister."  Other, more advanced greetings from adults include, "Where are you going?" (even if it is quite obvious that we are entereing our hotel or a restaurant), "What are you doing?" and "Where are you from?" All of these are considered polite greetings in Indonesia and usually, smiling and saying "Hello" (in English or Indonesian) is enough.  This, however, will sometimes bring on a series of further questions.
Terraced vegetable plots extending down to one of the Dieng Plateau's many lakes. One of the remaining Hindu shrines at the Anjuna Complex.
The Anjuna Complex. The Dieng Plateau's landscape is so surreal.  You walk through irrigated vegetable plots to brilliantly colored lakes looking at centuries old religious remains and then you stumble upon volcanic acivity.  It is one of the best places for walking in Southeast Asia.
One of the most fascinating things about Indonesia is the various means of transportation that share the narrow roads.  There does not seem to be any enforced rules of the road as pedestrians, bicycles, becaks, angkots, motorcycles, cars and buses all jockey for position.  One form of transportation that we often use is the becak.  This is a three-wheeled bicycle rickshaw where the driver sits at the rear propelling our lives nto the traffic.  Although it is a cheap and sometimes thrilling way to get around, becaks can be quite uncomfortable if stuck behind one of the many smoke-belching vehicles on the road.  Another cheap way to get around are angkots, city mini-buses.  These mini-buses can usually accommodate up to eight or nine people in a cramped but not uncomfortable seating arrangement.  However, during rush hour on the popular routes, as we have experienced, angkots can miraculously hold up to eighteen people in a very cramped and very uncomfortable seating arrangement.  When this full, there are usually two or three young men precariously hanging out the door.  Needless to say, we walk to our destinations as often as possible.
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