August 2000 - Singapore As we sat overlooking the New Bugis Street night market with our two new Singaporean friends, we discovered how wrong people had been when describing Singapore to us.  Some people we had spoken to held the view that Singaporeans are hard and rigid people with a government to match.  We, however, believe that what at first may seem prickly and harsh can be peeled away to reveal a surprising and rewarding inside.  Singapore is like the durian (a large, spiny oval fruit renowned for its phenomenal smell).  When the shell is cracked open, a creamy, delictable treat is revealed. Ater a gruelling thrity-six hour airplane/airport experience, we arrived in Singapore at 2:00 am.  We were so excited that jetlag did not stop us from discovering Singapore in the morning.  We spent our first day checking out the city's colonial buildings and history.  While in the Supreme Court building, we were able to sit and watch a hearing for a short period of time.

The Bugis Street Night Market full of durians.  The people of Singapore are especially fanatic about durians.  We witnessed one woman thump, smell and poke at durians for 45 minutes before she choose the one she wanted.

After a much needed nap, we set off to have some of that famous Singapore food in one of the city's many night markets.  We were greeted with the sounds of techno music and bustling crowds.  The smell was a mixture of durian fruit, commerce and incense wafting from the various Buddhist shrines.  The tastes were exotic and more satisfying than we had ever imagined.  And if anyone says that Singaporeans are aloof or rigid, I would direct them to this great coffeehouse that we stumbled upon straight out of Amsterdam, including a D.J spinning records and hipsters preparing for a rave party.  The people of Singapore have a real love of the sensual.

On Friday, we explored Chinatown.  Chinese people comprise 75% of Singapore's population and Chinatown is the the largest ethnic quarter of the city outside of the yuppie population of the Central Business District.  At the first temple that we visited, the caretaker mistook Brian for a University of Miami football player (which is quite a stretch) and proceeded to tell us all about his brother at the University of Miami.  We listened to his musings and were rewarded with his recommendation of a good Chinese coffeehouse around the corner.  Someone was always ready to tell you where the best coffeehouse or food stall was located and they were all came with generous proprieters interested in helping us discover the non-touristy, real Singapore. On Friday, we explored Chinatown.  Chinese people comprise 75% of Singapore's population and Chinatown is the largest ethnic quarter of the city outside of the yuppie population of the Central Business District.  At the first temple that we visited, the caretaker mistook Brian for a University of Miami football player (which is quite a stretch) and proceeded to tell us all about his brother at the University of Miami.  We listened to his musings and were finally rewarded with his inside tip of a good Chinese coffeehouse around the corner.  Someone was always ready to tell you where the best coffeehouse or food stall was located, it was a great source of pride in Singapore. Something always seemed to come up unexpectedly in Singapore.  In only two days, we stumbled upon an Indian Hindu wedding, a Chinese opera, a rave and various acrobatic street performers, a pop music concert and a charity auction. Observation: As we sit here penning this simple journal entry, we are approached by the owner of this drinking establishment on New Bugis Street Night Market inquiring why we are not sitting at our already regular table.  We have now obtained permission to expel anyone who daringly expropriate our newly regular seats.  Which begs the question - why is it that we always seem to quickly befriend the employees of drinking establishments wherever we travel?

Some parts of Chinatown have been redeveloped in recent years and now houses some fashionable businesses.  But no matter where you are in Chinatown, you will still be able to find old fashioned Singaporean cuisine.

The skyscrapers of the Central Business District loom over the beautifully restored buildings of Chinatown.

One of Singapore's many Chinese Buddhist Temples.  Singapore has a multi-cultural population practicing a number of religions including Buddhism, Islam and HInduism.

The beautiful Malabar Mosque also known as the Golden Dome Mosque or the Blue Mosque.  More than 20,000 blue tiles were used in the consturction of this mosque.

The interior courtyard of Singapore's largest mosque, the Sultan Mosque located in the Arab Street district.

One of the entrances to the Sultan Mosque.

Related Articles:

Toa Payoh Festival, Singapore

Melaka, Malaysia - Part I

Melaka, Malaysia - Part II

Kuala Lumpur - Part I

Temples, Mosques, Caves and Towers, Kuala Lumpur - Part II

Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia